In short: On November 6, 2026, Kering announced that British designer Martine Rose will lead Balenciaga’s creative direction. She starts on November 16 in Paris and becomes the first woman to hold the role in the house’s more than 100-year history. Her predecessor, Pierpaolo Piccioli, left a day earlier after only about 16 months.

What happened at Balenciaga?

On Thursday, November 5, Balenciaga confirmed Piccioli’s exit. The former Valentino creative director was appointed in May 2025 to replace Demna, who moved to Gucci, and started on July 10 that year. He presented just four collections — a remarkably short run for a house of this size. Kering gave no reason for the split, only thanking him for his contribution to the brand’s couture heritage.

The very next day, Kering named his successor. Rose’s name had already circulated in spring 2025, when the group was looking for Demna’s replacement, so the choice itself surprised few insiders. The speed did.

Who is Martine Rose?

Martine Rose is a 45-year-old London designer who founded her eponymous label in 2007. She built her reputation on menswear shaped by London subcultures, football, music and 1990s rave culture: oversized cuts, off-kilter proportions and a subverted take on classic tailoring. Many shoppers also know her from her Nike collaborations.

She is no stranger to Balenciaga: from 2015 to 2018 she consulted on Demna’s menswear. In her new role she will oversee men’s, women’s and couture. According to press reports, she is only the second Black woman to lead creative direction at a major European luxury house, after Grace Wales Bonner took over Hermès menswear in October 2025.

How will Balenciaga’s style change?

Piccioli steered the house back toward the sculptural volumes and craft of founder Cristóbal Balenciaga. Rose comes from a different world — everyday clothing, sportswear and playful proportions. The likeliest outcome is more street energy and a stronger menswear voice, delivered with couture-level execution. How that balance plays out will only be clear after her first show.

Why is Kering changing designers so often?

Rose is the first creative appointment made under Kering’s new CEO Luca de Meo. The group is reshaping teams across its brands: Anthony Vaccarello left Saint Laurent in October after a decade, and Alexander McQueen has also been looking for a new creative lead. For investors, the reshuffle is an attempt to restart growth in the luxury portfolio.

FAQ

When does Martine Rose start at Balenciaga?

On November 16, 2026, based in Paris.

When will Martine Rose show her first Balenciaga collection?

No date has been announced yet. The earliest opportunity is one of the upcoming Paris Fashion Weeks.

Will Martine Rose close her own label?

Nothing has been announced. Her most recent runway show was her Spring/Summer 2026 collection, presented in June 2025.

Sources: Vogue Scandinavia, Hypebeast, Sortiraparis, Reuters / bdnews24, Dazed.